NYFW Series (3/3) : Prabal Gurung, Narciso Rodriguez, Vera Wang

“It started with a picture I took of the clouds, and the place, it just stuck in my mind and grew from there.” Prabal Gurung describes the muse for his latest collection; The Adirondack Mountains. The trip to Upstate New York set his collection in motion using this mountain range to inspire extravagant furs, wool coats and beaded evening wear. Linear silhouettes such as deep plunging V-necks and geometric draping echo the concept of hills and mountains. Using muted shades such as grey, ivory, navy and black creates a serene palette that is well executed and pays homage to the aesthetic directions of Gurung.

This collection by Narciso Rodriguez is sleek and refined. His use of minimal colour is enhanced by the clean cut of the garments; pops of bright colour at odds with his usual monochromatic aesthetic. Said to be influenced by Indian Royalty, the Maharaja the use of delicate embroidery and vibrant shades of marigold, tangerine and peach was captivating. Building up textures of Crêpe, Cashmere and Silk Georgette in these colours against his usual default of black and white gave a striking combination, one of which I am a massive fan of.

Vera Wang goes rogue as she steps away from bridal and tailoring bringing her personal style to the runway. "It's reflective of how I live and dress," she describes, as the foremost wedding dress designer and backstage tomboy Vera is a divergent character which is clearly demonstrated in this collection. With aran knits slung over vinyl skirts and wool blazers covering sheer mini dresses embellished with graphic flower appliqués. Wang uniquely marries together small elements of classic men's tailoring i.e. inserting a trouser waistband with pockets into a column gown. This collection is ironic and unapologetically rebellious.

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